Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir

Clark & Telephone is a single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Belle Glos, grown in the Santa Maria Valley of Santa Barbara County, California, and bottled at 14.5% ABV. That alcohol level is high for the grape and points to a ripe, full-flavored style rather than a delicate, high-toned one. The Santa Maria Valley runs east to west and takes cool Pacific air and fog, so the fruit usually keeps good acidity despite the warm days. The producer describes the wine as showing dark fruit, spice and a plush, rich texture. Expect the fruit to sit on the darker side of Pinot Noir: black cherry, plum and blackberry rather than tart red cranberry or strawberry. Wines from this part of California often add baking-spice notes, such as clove and cinnamon, plus some cola or tea-leaf character, and oak, if it shows, tends to appear as vanilla or toast. The body is medium-full for Pinot, and the tannins are typically soft and rounded, which fits the plush feel the producer describes. Acidity should be enough to keep the wine from feeling heavy, and the finish is likely to be long and fruit-driven. Because the wine is fuller and riper than many Pinots, it handles richer food well. Roast duck, pork tenderloin with a fruit glaze, seared salmon or tuna, and mushroom dishes such as risotto or a mushroom tart all suit it. It is also a good match for grilled lamb, roast chicken with herbs, and medium-aged cheeses like Gruyère or Comté. Lighter seafood and very delicate dishes would be overpowered. Serve it at about 60 to 65°F, which is cool cellar temperature. Pull it from the fridge for roughly 15 minutes if it has been chilled, or give a room-temperature bottle about 20 minutes in the fridge. Warmer than that, the alcohol becomes more noticeable and the fruit tastes flat. Decanting is not necessary for a wine this soft, though 20 to 30 minutes in a decanter, or simply in the glass, can open up the spice and aromatics. Use a large-bowled Burgundy-style glass, which gives the dark fruit room to develop and directs the aromas toward the nose. This is mainly a bottle for drinking over the next few years, while the fruit is generous, rather than one to cellar for the long term.