Oddero Nizza Docg

Oddero's Nizza DOCG is a Barbera from the Nizza appellation in the Monferrato hills of Piedmont. The estate is a long-established family producer based in La Morra. Nizza is a step above standard Barbera d'Asti, with a stricter production regime and a longer ageing requirement. That generally gives wines with more depth and structure than the lighter, juicier Barbera most people know. Expect ripe dark fruit, such as black cherry, plum and blackberry, with the grape's trademark bright acidity running through the middle. Barbera is naturally low in tannin, so the grip here should come more from acidity and extract than from drying tannins. Some oak influence is typical for the appellation, usually showing as spice, vanilla or a light toasty edge rather than overt wood. Expect a medium-full body and a finish that stays fresh instead of heavy. That acidity is the key to the table. Barbera cuts through fat and richness well, so it suits the food of Piedmont: agnolotti del plin with a meat jus, tajarin with ragù, braised beef in Barbera or Barolo, and bollito misto with salsa verde. It also handles cured meats such as salame and prosciutto, and aged cheeses like Castelmagno, Parmigiano Reggiano or a mature Toma. Tomato-based dishes are a good match too, since the wine's acidity keeps pace with theirs. Think lasagne, mushroom and sausage pizza, or roast pork with herbs. It is less suited to very delicate fish or dishes built around heavy chili heat. Serve it at roughly 16 to 18°C, a little cooler than a typical room, which keeps the fruit lively and stops the oak and alcohol from feeling loud. If the bottle has been in a warm spot, 20 minutes in the fridge helps. A short decant of 30 to 45 minutes is worthwhile for a young Nizza, as it softens the edges and lets the aromatics open. An older bottle with sediment should be decanted off the lees. A standard red wine glass with a moderately wide bowl works well, and a Burgundy-style shape suits the cherry-driven fruit and gives the acidity room to show. On cellaring, Nizza is built to hold. The combination of high acidity and a longer ageing requirement means it drinks well on release with food and decanting, and it can also develop over the next several years. With time, expect the primary fruit to move toward dried cherry, leather and savoury spice. For drinking now, give it air and serve it with something rich. For keeping, store it on its side in a cool, dark place at a steady temperature.