Domaine Mader Cremant D'Alsace Extra Brut

Domaine Mader's Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut is a traditional-method sparkling wine from Alsace, France, made in the Extra Brut style with minimal or no dosage. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, as in Champagne, which is why wines like this usually show fine, persistent bubbles and a toasty, bready note from time on the lees. Crémant d'Alsace is typically built on Pinot Blanc, Pinot Auriol, Pinot Gris, Riesling or Pinot Noir, but the producer's details here don't name the blend, so check the label if the grape mix matters to you. Extra Brut means very little added sugar, so expect a bone-dry, tightly focused wine rather than a soft or fruity one. Alsace's cool, sunny growing conditions tend to give sparkling wines with firm acidity and clean orchard-fruit character such as green apple, pear and citrus, sometimes with a mineral edge. With so little dosage, the acidity comes through directly. The body is usually light to medium, tannin is not a factor in a white sparkler, and oak is rarely noticeable. A crisp, dry finish is the expected result. That dryness makes it a good partner for rich or salty food. Fried dishes, oysters and other shellfish, smoked salmon, and soft cheeses such as Brie or fresh goat cheese all benefit from the acidity and bubbles. Alsatian classics also work well, including tarte flambée, choucroute and cured charcuterie. Because the wine is so lean, very sweet dishes and desserts will make it taste sharper than it is, so keep it for the start of a meal or for savory courses. Serve it well chilled, around 6 to 8°C (43 to 46°F). Colder than that mutes the aroma, and warmer makes the dry edge feel harsh. It does not need decanting, and the bubbles go flat faster if you pour it into a carafe. A tulip-shaped white wine glass or a universal wine glass shows the aromas better than a wide, shallow coupe, and it keeps the bubbles lively longer than a flute that is too narrow. Crémant like this is made to be enjoyed fresh. Drink it within a few years of purchase rather than cellaring it, since the appeal here is crispness and clean fruit rather than long-term development.