Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs D'Ay Champagne

Gaston Chiquet's Blanc de Blancs d'Ay is a 12.5% ABV Champagne made entirely from Chardonnay grown in Aÿ. The village is better known for Pinot Noir, so a Chardonnay-only bottling from there is an unusual one. The estate is a family-run grower house based in Dizy, in the Vallée de la Marne. Because the wine is a grower Champagne, it comes from one family's vineyards and cellar rather than from a large négociant blend. It is made in a dry style and is fresh and elegant. Expect citrus and white-flower aromas, a fine, persistent mousse and a mineral finish. Chardonnay-based Champagne like this usually shows lemon and green-apple fruit, and the body tends to be light to medium. Acidity is the backbone. There is no tannin to speak of, and any oak influence is typically subtle, so the focus stays on clarity and precision rather than richness. In the glass, this style generally rewards a little patience. Serve it well chilled but not ice-cold, around 8 to 10°C. A bottle taken straight from a very cold fridge will mute the white-flower aromatics and make the acidity feel sharper than it is. Decanting isn't needed and would only dissipate the bubbles. If you want it to open up, give it a few minutes in the glass instead. A tulip-shaped white wine glass or a universal wine glass suits it better than a narrow flute, since the wider bowl lets the citrus and floral notes develop while still holding the mousse. At the table, the high acidity and mineral finish make it a natural partner for oysters, raw or lightly poached white fish, scallop crudo and sushi. It also works with goat's cheese, young Comté and soft-rinded cheeses such as Brie. Fried food is a good match too, since the acidity cuts through oil. Tempura, fish and chips and fried chicken all pair well. It also holds up well as an aperitif with salted almonds or gougères. As for cellaring, it is ready to drink on release, and the fresh citrus profile is what most people are after. Blanc de blancs Champagne is also known for developing well with some bottle age, gaining toasty, nutty and brioche notes over several years. Keep it on its side in a cool, dark place at a steady temperature if you plan to hold some back. Once it is opened, a Champagne stopper will keep it lively for a day, but it is best finished the same evening.