Cognac: what it is and how to choose a bottle

Cognac is a brandy made from grapes in the Cognac region of France, distilled twice and aged in oak, and the letters on the label (VS, VSOP, XO) tell you how long it has aged. If you want to see what we carry, start with our cognac page, then read on for how to choose between the styles and how to drink them.

What is cognac?

Cognac is a brandy, which means it is a spirit distilled from fruit, in this case wine made from grapes. What makes it cognac and not just brandy is where and how it is made. By French law it has to come from the Cognac region in the southwest of France, and it has to follow a set method.

The grapes are mostly Ugni Blanc, a white grape that makes a thin, high-acid wine that suits distilling. That wine is distilled twice in copper pot stills, then the clear spirit goes into oak barrels, usually French oak, to age. The oak gives cognac its amber colour and flavours of vanilla, dried fruit, spice and toasted nuts.

After ageing, a cellar master blends spirits from different barrels and years to get a consistent house style. This is why a cognac house can make a bottle taste the same year after year even though every barrel is different. Most cognac is bottled at 40 percent alcohol by volume.

You can browse the full range of cognac we stock in Westford, and the wider liquor section if you are comparing it with other spirits.

What do VS, VSOP and XO mean on a cognac label?

These letters are age statements, and they are the quickest way to understand what you are buying. The age refers to the youngest spirit in the blend, so most bottles contain older cognac as well.

VS stands for Very Special. The youngest spirit in the blend has been aged at least two years in oak. VS cognac is bright and fruity with a lively, slightly sharp edge, which is why it is the usual choice for mixing.

VSOP stands for Very Superior Old Pale. The youngest spirit has been aged at least four years. It is rounder and smoother than VS, with more spice and oak, and it works both in cocktails and for sipping.

XO stands for Extra Old. The youngest spirit has been aged at least ten years. XO is deeper and more layered, with notes of dried fruit, leather, tobacco and baking spice, and most people drink it neat so they can take their time with it.

You will also see labels such as Napoleon or Hors d'Age. These generally sit at or above the XO level, but the age statement is the part with a legal definition.

How is cognac different from brandy, whiskey and bourbon?

Brandy is the broad family: any spirit distilled from fermented fruit. Cognac is one protected type inside it, the way Champagne is one type of sparkling wine. Other brandies come from Spain, Armenia, California and elsewhere, and they follow their own rules.

Whiskey is a different thing entirely. It is distilled from fermented grain, such as corn, rye or barley, not from grapes. Bourbon is an American whiskey made mostly from corn and aged in new charred oak, which is why it tastes of caramel, vanilla and toasted wood in a bolder way. If you like bourbon and want to try something different but related, cognac is a natural step, since both get much of their flavour from oak. You can see the wider whiskey section too.

The practical difference in the glass is that cognac tends to taste of fruit first, grapes, apricot, orange peel and dried fig, with the oak in support. Whiskey and bourbon tend to put the grain and the wood up front.

How do you drink cognac?

There is no wrong way, but a few approaches suit different bottles. For sipping, pour a small measure into a tulip-shaped glass or a small snifter, and let it sit for a minute. Smell it before you taste it. Cognac is usually served at room temperature, and the warmth of your hand is enough to open it up. Skip the idea that you need to cup the glass over a flame or swirl it hard.

If the strength feels sharp, add a few drops of water or one large ice cube. Dilution can soften the alcohol and let the fruit come through. Many people do this with VSOP and XO alike.

For a longer drink, cognac works well with ginger beer, tonic or soda over ice, with a wedge of lemon or orange. A VS is the sensible choice here, since the mixer will cover the finer detail of an older bottle. We carry a full shelf of mixers if you are building a drink at home.

As always, drink in moderation and never before driving.

Which cognac is best for cocktails and which for sipping?

Match the age statement to the job. For cocktails, VS or VSOP is the usual pick. The Sidecar, made with cognac, orange liqueur and lemon juice, is the classic, and the Vieux Carré, Brandy Alexander and a cognac version of the French 75 are other well-known recipes. A younger cognac keeps its character when it is shaken or stirred with other ingredients.

For an orange note in a Sidecar, you will want a good bottle of orange liqueur alongside the cognac. If a recipe you like calls for one, ask us at the counter.

For sipping, step up to VSOP or XO. You are paying for age and complexity, and you will taste it best with no mixer at all. An XO is also a sensible bottle for a special occasion, and it is a common choice for a gift.

If you are not sure, a VSOP is the safest middle ground because it handles both jobs. Come in and ask, and we will help you narrow it down by how you plan to drink it.

How should you store and serve an open bottle of cognac?

Keep the bottle upright, away from sunlight and away from heat, in a cupboard or on a shelf at normal room temperature. Unlike wine, you should not lay it on its side, because the high alcohol content can slowly attack a cork over a long time.

Cognac does not continue to age once it is in the bottle, so an XO that has sat for years tastes the same as the day it was filled. Once opened, the spirit holds up well for a long time if the cap is tight, though very low levels in a bottle can slowly dull the aroma over the years.

No need to refrigerate it. Serving it cold mutes the aroma, and the aroma is a large part of the pleasure.

Where can you buy cognac in Westford, MA?

CBC Liquors is at 142 Littleton Rd in Westford. We are open Sunday from 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM, Monday to Thursday from 10:00 AM to 9:00 PM, and Friday and Saturday from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM. Our shop holds 4,617 products from 1,892 brands, and our Google rating is 4.7 out of 5 from 339 reviews.

You can look through the cognac page before you come in, and you can use pickup during the same hours as the shop. If you would rather not make the trip, we also offer delivery and shipping, with delivery hours of 10:00 AM to 7:30 PM on Sunday, 10:00 AM to 8:30 PM Monday to Thursday and 10:00 AM to 9:30 PM Friday and Saturday. Our liquor delivery areas page lists the towns we serve, including Chelmsford, Acton and Lowell.

Our shipping policy has the details for orders sent out of the shop. As with any alcohol order, you will need to be 21 or older and show valid ID.

Is cognac a good gift, and what about a party?

A bottle of cognac is an easy gift for someone who enjoys spirits, because the age statement gives you a clear way to choose. A VSOP is a comfortable pick for most people. An XO suits a milestone or a thank-you for someone who already sips brown spirits.

If you are not sure what the person drinks, a gift card lets them choose for themselves. If you are hosting, our party planner page can help you think through what to have on hand, and a bottle of VS cognac with a few mixers gives guests a simple long drink alongside beer and wine.

Ask us in the shop if you want help matching a bottle to a person or an occasion.